One nice thing about modern flooring is cleanliness. With little effort modern homes can remain relatively dirt free. The one area of your home that is most exposed to the soil and filth of the outdoors is the flooring. This is thanks to people and pets. People and pets roam around outside then track it into the house and onto your floor.
Because of this, at our house we have adopted a shoes-off policy. We have a nice bench area outside the front and back doors where all shoes are removed before coming into the house. Even my dog has to take shoes off first. Not really, but we have trained her to stop when she comes in so we can wipe her feet if needed. It works. And it keeps the crud out where it belongs and not on our floor. If you have not adopted a shoes-off policy yet, I strongly recommend it.
There are a wide variety of material choices available for the floors of your home. Below are a few of the most common types.
Hardwood Floors are beautiful and feel nice underfoot. Warm and sturdy. They have an imperceptible slight “give” to them, making it easier to walk on them for any length of time compared to stone or concrete or tile. Hardwood flooring comes in the original form of thick unfinished planks or a thinner, prefinished, composite flooring material that closely resembles the original-but not quite. Real hardwood floors are ¾” thick planks anywhere from 2” to 6” in width that require sanding and finishing on the site.
Wood floors respond noticeably to changes in humidity in your home. New flooring should never be installed until it has had time to acclimate to the new location. Especially during winter months. The individual planks or pieces expand and contract as their water content changes. Some shrinkage will naturally happen around heat vents or any heat-producing appliances, Swelling or shrinking will also occur during seasonal weather changes.
Wood floors are usually made of species that are very hard and that resist dents and dings. Even so, placing heavy furniture or dropping sharp objects on hardwood floors can result in damage. I will never forget rolling a grand piano a short distance across my new living room floor years ago and leaving a nice indented trail. Don’t make that mistake.
Install proper floor protectors on furniture legs placed on hardwood floors. Protectors will allow chairs to move easily over the floor without scuffing. Never move any furniture even with protectors until the floor is immaculately clean and free of any grit.
This may be difficult but try to keep high heels under control and in good repair. Heels can apply over 8,000#/psi on the floor. That’s enough to damage hardened concrete and it will certainly damage your wood floor. Use protective mats at the exterior doors to help prevent sand and grit from getting on the wood surface. Sand grit is a wood floor’s nemesis.
Rubber rug backing
The rubber backing on some area rugs or mats can cause yellowing and warping of the floor surface. Wood floors subjected to water leaks can “cup” or “warp”. Cupping happens from high humidity levels causing the flooring to swell and subsequently bend up at the edges. If caught early and dried out, this occurrence may diminish 6 – 12 months after normal humidity is maintained. Cupping that remains in excess of 1/16 of an inch over a 3-inch span measured perpendicular to the long axis of the plank will need to be replaced or repaired.
Warping will occur if the floor repeatedly becomes wet or is thoroughly soaked even once. This condition may level out in 6-12 months if the wet conditions are removed and drying is applied. Slight warping in the area of heat vents or heat and moisture producing appliances (i.e. dishwasher) is also common.
Shrinkage is another problem that can happen if the floor is installed in a swelled condition, this results in separations between the floor planks. If these exceed 3/16 inch the floor may need to be replaced. Gaps that do not exceed 3/16 of an inch may close up within a year or two months so be patient. This is fairly common in homes that experience significant shifts in humidity. Wood floors must be installed with a slight gap around the perimeter of the floor so that when humidity levels change and the wood floor swells the floor will not buckle.
- Do not wet your hardwood floor. Soaking wood floors with water causes the wood to expand and can possibly damage the floor. Instead, when floor finishes become soiled, lightly “damp-mop” with a mixture of one cup vinegar to one gallon of warm water. When damp-mopping, squeeze all excess water from the mop first.
- Do not use cleaners that contain wax or similar finish enhancers. These materials will make future refinishing more difficult and costly. Water drops often (from wet shoes or boots) will leave a white, filmy appearance on the finish from moisture, this condition will clear up and fade shortly once the spots are mopped up and the area has a chance to dry.
- Avoid exposure to direct sunlight as it can cause irreparable damage to hardwood floors. To preserve the beauty of your hardwood floors, install and use window coverings in these areas.
- 1x per week: Gently sweep the floors on a daily basis or as needed. I like to use a janitor sized dust mop. Never wet mop a hardwood floor.
- 4x per year: clean with a Bona X type wood floor cleaner.
- Every 2 years: Inspect finish and assess for possible recoating.
Resilient flooring is the terminology used for vinyl flooring tiles or sheet material. These are tough, water-resistant materials made for heavy use which makes them ideal for kitchens, bathrooms and laundry areas.
Resilient flooring comes in a jillion colors and patterns. Resilient floors are tough but do have some maintenance needs. Some resilient floors require regular application of a good floor finish. This assures you of retaining a high gloss.
Maintenance and housekeeping
Wipe up spills and vacuum crumbs instead of washing resilient floors frequently with water. Excessive amounts of water on resilient floors can penetrate seams and get under edges, causing the material to lift and curl. Water trapped beneath the flooring material can foster mold and dry rot. Moving heavy objects across resilient floor covering can result in tears and wrinkles in the surface. Install coasters on furniture legs to prevent permanent damage. The resilient flooring installed in your home maybe the no-wax type. A “no-wax” finish means a clear, tough coating has been applied that provides both a shiny appearance and a durable surface. However, even this surface will scuff or mark. Use acrylic finishes if you scrub or buff.
Any brand or type of resilient flooring may separate slightly due to shrinkage. Seams can lift or curl if excessive moisture is allowed to penetrate them. Seams are sealed at the time of installation. Correct gaps in excess of 1/16 inch where resilient flooring pieces meet or 1/8 inch where resilient flooring meets another material by filling with a seam sealer. Correct any curling at seams by having a vinyl installer make a repair.
- Follow the manufacturer’s specific recommendations for care and cleaning.
- Do not slide heavy objects across this floor material without pads or protectors.
- Wipe up spills right away and damp mop the surface with on a regular basis to keep clean.
- Avoid soaking floors with heavy amounts of water, especially around tubs and showers.
- 1x per year: Inspect the flooring for seam separations greater than 1/16 inch and fill those joints with special caulking.
- 1x per year: Inspect for open joints, swelling at seams especially at junction areas around tubs and showers.
Common Problems and Troubleshootingo
- Raised nail heads are the result of movements of the floor joist caused by natural shrinkage and deflection.
- If a nail head becomes visible through resilient flooring, place a block of wood over it and hit the block with a hammer to reset the nail.
- Frequent scrubbing or electric buffing is harder on floors than
Natural stone, ceramic and porcelain tile have been around for thousands of years. Tile is one of the most durable and easy to maintain floor and counter coverings. Porcelain tiles are harder, denser, more water resistant and more expensive than ceramic tiles.
Contrary to popular belief, tile and grout surfaces are not waterproof. A waterproofing layer beneath the tile makes it safe. In showers this layer is called a “pan”. On an exterior deck, the resistant layer is called “waterproofing”.
Tile can crack or chip if abused. An impact with a heavy weight can shatter tile. To allow for slight movement between the materials, use matching caulk between hard fixtures and tile instead of grout. Expect slight separations to occur in the grout between tiles. Grout is for decorative and joint filling purposes only; it does not hold the tile in place nor does it waterproof the installation.
Maintenance and housekeeping
To clean your tile, simply vacuum or wipe down when needed. Occasionally, a wet mopping with warm water may be appropriate. Avoid adding detergent to the water. If your tile floor is very dirty, a mild solution of warm water and ammonia is fine. Rinse thoroughly. For ceramic tile on walls or countertops a non-abrasive cleaning material is best. Towel dry your tile after every use. Water can leave a calcium residue on the surface that may become unattractive. Avoid abrasive cleaners as they will dull the finish further. Clean any grout that becomes yellowed or stained with a fiber brush, cleanser, and water. Safe grout cleansers and whiteners are available at most hardware stores.
- 1x per year: Check for cracked or loose tiles. Tap on the tiles with a golf ball. If the sound is hollow, the tile has come loose. Broken tiles are difficult to repair. Surrounding grout must be tediously removed, then prying them out requires extreme care not to break adjacent tiles. Once removed you must find a matching piece.
- 1x per year: Inspect grout lines for voids, stains, mold etc. If this occurs, the best remedy is to remove and replace these areas with premixed grout from a hardware store. Follow directions on the container.
- 1x per year: If you have a porous natural marble tile, it is recommended to have it inspected and professionally cleaned and sealed on a regular basis depending on the frequency of use. Consult with a professional firm with a good reputation for this.
The craft of carpet making is as ancient as weaving. Carpets and rugs are similar in design to cloth. Bits of yarn or fabric threads are attached to a grid of strong woven threads or twine. There are several kinds of material commercially available in carpet today including wool, polyester, nylon and blends. There are an infinite, multitude of colors, textures and patterns.
Carpet usually comes in 12-foot widths and as a result seams are necessary in large rooms. Dense and uniform carpet texture will make any seams more visible. Carpet styles with low, tight naps result in highly visible seams. Seams are very visible when the carpet is first installed and with time, use, and vacuuming the seams become less visible.
You can add years to the life of your carpet with a little knowledge and regular care. Carpet wears out because dirt particles filter down to the lower levels of the carpet where it is beyond the suction of the vacuum. These particles wear on the fibers like sandpaper and dull the carpet. After a while, these particles and even find their way past the base of the carpet and into the pad, where it will wear eventually destroy the pad.
Maintenance and housekeeping
Vacuuming carpets regularly helps, but the best idea is to keep the dirt off of the surface of the carpet altogether. For cleaning, some makers suggest twice each week lightly and once a week deeply. I think unless you have a football team practicing on the floor that may be a bit much. Heavy traffic areas certainly require more frequent cleaning. A light job is three passes; a deep job may require seven passes. A vacuum cleaner with a beater-bar agitates the pile and is more effective in bringing dirt to the surface for easy removal. Vacuuming high-traffic areas daily helps keep them clean and maintains the upright position of the nap.
Wipe spills and clean stains immediately. For best results, blot or dab any spill or stain and avoid rubbing. The idea is to absorb the moisture out from the depths of the carpet and pad where it can become a mold issue. For bad stains, test any stain removers first on an out-of-the-way area of the carpet, such as in a closet, to check for any undesirable effects. Have your carpet professionally cleaned regularly, usually once a year. Hold the edges of carpet in place securely with moulding or metal edging.
- Recommend a shoes-off policy on the carpeted areas of the home.
- Keep some absorbent pads and pet stain remover available.
- Make a list of the various carpets and padding types (makers, colors, weights etc.) in your home for future reference. Refer to the various manufacturers recommendations for additional information on the care of your floor coverings.
- 2x per week: Light clean vacuum.
- 1x per week: Deep clean vacuum.
- 1x per year: Inspect edges and seams to make sure that edges are firmly in place and there are no gaps. Inspect heavy traffic areas for wear and the need for any change to housekeeping protocols.
Common Problems and Troubleshootingo
- Furniture and traffic may crush a carpet’s pile fibers. Frequent vacuuming in high-traffic areas and glides or cups under heavy pieces of furniture can help prevent this. Rotating your furniture to change the traffic pattern in a room promotes more even wear. Some carpets resist matting and crushing because of their level of fiber, but some matting or crushing will occur.
- Expect wear in high traffic areas.
- All carpets will slowly fade in color due to sunlight and other natural forces in the environment. You can delay this process by reducing sunlight exposure with window coverings.
- Conditioned air travels from room to room under the doorways. This forces the air over the carpet fibers, which in turn act as a filter, catching particulate pollution. Over time, a noticeable stain develops at the threshold.
- Pilling or small balls of fiber can appear on your carpet, depending on the type of carpet fiber and the type of traffic. If this occurs, clip off the pills.
- Rippling wall-to-wall carpeting, high humidity may cause rippling. If the carpet remains rippled after the humidity has left, have a professional re-stretch the carpeting using a power stretcher.
- Household traffic causes pile fibers to assume different angles; as a result, the carpet appears darker and lighter in these areas.
More Carpet tips
- New carpeting, especially pile, sheds bits of fiber for a period of time. Eventually these loose fibers are removed by vacuuming. Shedding usually occurs more with wool carpeting than with nylon or other synthetics.
- Sharp-edged objects can grab or snag the carpet fiber. When this occurs, cut off the snag. Occasionally you may find small tufts of fiber sprouting above carpet surface. Simply use scissors to cut off the sprout. Do not attempt to pull it, because other fibers will come out in the process.
- Take care of any kind of burn immediately by first snipping off the darkened fibers, then use a soap free cleaner and sponge with water. If the burn is extensive, replace the damaged area.
- No carpet is stain proof. Although your carpet manufacturer may designate your carpet as stain-resistant, some substances can still cause permanent staining. These include hair dyes, shoe polish, paints, and India ink.
- Some substances destroy or change the color of carpets, including bleaches, acne medications, drain cleaners, plant food, insecticides, and food or beverages with strongly colored natural dyes as found in some brands of mustard and herbal tea. Pretest any spot-removal solution in an inconspicuous area before using it in a large area. Apply several drops of the solution, hold a white tissue on the area, and count to ten. Examine both tissue and carpet for dye transfer and check for carpet damage.
- Cooler temperatures outside often contribute to static electricity inside.